Find here our collated list of French "losange" shaped maker's marks for objects in precious metals from jewellery to silverware. Our list is an ongoing collection of all the maker's marks we come across. Information is subject to change has our knowledge evolves with the list over time.
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Our List
An Introduction to French Maker's Marks
Our List
The List of Maker's Marks
The list is organised in alphabetical order by first initial first and second initial second. Please note the list is currently in progress and new marks and subsections are in the process of being added. To have a look at instructions on how to use the list click here.
How to Use the List
The mark's have been categorised in alphabetical order by the initials found in the design. The list is organised in alphabetical order by first initial first and second initial second.
Example:
The initials found on this maker's mark design are P C. The first initial, P, directs you to the first subsection of the list, PA - PZ. The second initial, C, directs you to the second subsection, in this case that would be P C. Please note that this visual example is a design idea and not yet a real mark!
An Introduction to French Maker's Marks
Understanding the French Maker's Mark
There are different types of French maker's marks that are used for different items. The shape of the mark already tells us some information about the object. This list is dedicated to the "losange" shaped mark described below.
Losange -
The maker uses this losange shape, which could also be described as a kite or diamond, to commit to their item being made from precious metals. They are also indicating that the object has been made by their workshop. It is referred to in French as a "poinçon de maître" or a "poinçon de fabricant", this translates to a maker's mark.
Oval -
The oval shaped mark differs from the losange as, although it is a commitment to the item being made from precious metal, it is not an indication that the item was made in France by the company that is having it marked. It is referred to in French as a "poinçon de responsabilité" or a "poinçon d'importateur", this translates to a responsibility mark or an importer's mark. This is where the importer takes responsibility for stating that the object is in made from the metal which is indicated
Square -
If you see a square shaped mark on a French item, "poinçon carré" in French, this is your first warning sign that the item is most certainly not made from a precious metal. This shape is reserved for items that have been plated or gilded in a precious metal. The technique used, whether that be plated, gilded or rolled, is sometimes indicated inside the mark. These words in French are "plaqué", "laminé" and "doublé". The object might also be desiribed as a metal "argenté" or "doré" for a better understanding of these words and their meaning have a look at the French vocabulary section of this article.
Each of these shapes acts as a frame for the maker's personal signature. The design must be comprised of their initials and a symbol. The symbol, whether it be an animal, object or a geometric shape, is often chosen for its significance to the establishment. There are many instances where the symbol in question has been chosen to make a pun with the maker's name for example. The symbol is often passed on, within families, from one generation of maker to the next; only the initials might change. A symbol might also become attached to the address itself and a new craftsperson, taking over a workshop, might chose to carry on using the same symbol as the previous one.
The designs themselves have evolved throughout the years. The losange shape can nowadays be designed to either be presented vertically or horizontally, however, the first known losange maker's marks, made during the years of the French revolution, were designed to be vertical. It wasn't until approximately 1797 where the first horizontal designs appeared. The vast majority of mark's made to date are horizontal with only about 1 in 10 being vertical.
Why are maker's marks important?
There are many reasons why a maker's mark can be useful when trying to understand a piece of jewellery. When looking at antique and vintage pieces we are always aiming to gather as much information we can to try and piece together the story of an item. The maker's mark can uncover clues to do with the item's origins, what it is made of, who made it, and when. The shape can indicate whether the item was made in France or perhaps imported and whether it is likely in solid precious metal or not. The signature itself tells us who made it or who is accepting responsibility for it. Lastly, the French maker's mark can help with dating an item as it might be tied to known dates of activity.
How to Use the List
The mark's have been categorised in alphabetical order by the initials found in the design. The list is organised in alphabetical order by first initial first and second initial second.
Example:
The initials found on this maker's mark design are P C. The first initial, P, directs you to the first subsection of the list, PA - PZ. The second initial, C, directs you to the second subsection, in this case that would be P C.
Useful French Terminology
Marks
Poinçon - Mark/ stamp on metalwork
Poinçon de maître - Maker's mark
Poinçon d'importateur - Importer's mark
Poinçon de responsabilité - Responsibility mark
Poinçon losangique - Losange shaped mark
Poinçon d'atelier - workshop's mark
Poinçon de fabricant - Maker's mark
Shapes
Losange - Kite or diamond shape
Ovale - Oval
Carré - Square
Techniques & Materials
Or - gold
Argent - silver
Platine - platinum
Plaqué or- gold plated
Laminé or/ doublé or- rolled gold, gold filled
Argenté - silver in colour
Doré - gold in colour
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